CLOTHING xxviii. Concordance of clothing terms among ethnic groups in modern Persia

 

CLOTHING

xxviii. Concordance of clothing terms among ethnic groups in modern Persia

This concordance has been compiled from xiii-xxvi, above.

M: garments worn by men

F: garments worn by women

aba, cloak, caftan (M Harkī Kurdish)

ʿabāʾ, coat (M Qašqāʾī)

abā-nemet, cape, mantle (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

ʿabayye, mantle (M Kurdish Jewish)

adamlıq, pear-shaped pendant (F Turkmen)

afendī, cotton čādor (F central and southern Khorasan)

āḡābānū, muslin (Kurdish)

äḷčäk, sleeve pendant (F Azeri)

āldaŋi, headband (F Turkmen)

alḵāleq, doublet (M Caspian)

alḵālōg, jacket (F Zarzā Kurdish)

amra, handwoven wool (Kurdish Jewish)

ara tumanı, underskirt (F Azeri)

araqčın, skullcap (F Azeri, M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

arḵalıq, tunic, jacket, coat (F Azeri, M Šahsevän,

Qaradaḡi)

ārḵāloq, cloak, jacket (M, F Qašqāʾī)

asıq, heart-shaped pendant (F Turkmen)

āstīn, sleeve (F Caspian)

badle, embroidery (F Hormozgān)

bafta, decorative cloth braid (Azeri)

baḵari, coat (F Azeri)

balaq, trousers (M, F Turkmen)

balkāl, caftan (F Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

bandōk. See bandūmī

bandūmī, swaddling (Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

bānzārī, embroidered sleeves (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

barrak, woollen cloth (Hazāra)

bāšlaḵ, cape (M Caspian)

bāšloq, scarf (F Daragaz)

bašmaq, half-slipper (F Azeri, M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

baṭṭūla, mask (F Hormozgān)

bāźü, robe (F Nūrestān)

ben pušī, scarf (F Harkī Kurdish)

berk, hat (M Qašqāʾī)

bēzbent, disk (M Turkmen)

bezelik. See bilezik

bıg baḡı, moustache tie (M Šahsevan, Qaradaḡi)

bījāmā, loose trousers (F Caspian)

bilezik, cuff bracelets (F Turkmen)

boḡmaq, headdress (F Ērsārı Turkmen)

bojmāq, headdress (F Turkmen, Afghanistan)

bōqrā, face veil (F Herat)

börk, skullcap (M, F Turkmen; Turkefied Ṭāleš)

borūk. See šopūrma

boyama, kerchief (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

būḵārāʾī. See qazzāqī

būl, nose ring (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

buqaw, choker (F Turkmen)

bürenğek, mantle (F Turkmen)

čabbaw, sandals (M Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

čabıt, coat (F Turkmen)

čādar, head scarf (F Afghanistan; Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan), mantle (F Pashtun), shawl (M Af­ghanistan)

čādarī, cap with veil and openwork panel for the eyes (F Afghanistan)

čādəršāb, wrap (F Caspian)

čādor, shawl (F Hazāra, Hormozgān, Qašqāʾī)

čaḵčur, leggings (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

čakman, caftan (M Hazāra)

čakme, rubber boots (M Caspian)

čakmen, jacket (M Kurdish, Yerevan)

čalma, turban (M Kurdish, Yerevan)

čamūs, high-heeled boots (M Turkic, northern Af­ghanistan)

čaŋŋa, lozenge with fretted edges (F Turkmen)

čapalī, slipper (F Hormozgān)

čapan, long-sleeved robe (M northern Afghanistan)

čapıq, rounded flap of a jacket skirt over the hip (F Azeri)

čäpkän, jacket (F Azeri)

čaplay, leather sandal (Pashtun)

čaplī, leather sandal (Afghanistan)

čaplī-e robbar, rubber sandal (M Hazāra)

čaplīt, rubber shoe (M Bīrjand)

čappat. See čaplıt

čapraz, bossed disk (F Turkmen)

čār-tark, four-gored crown of cap (M Hazāra)

čarāḵ Hazārajāt, heavy-soled shoes (M Hazāra)

čarāḵ soḵlī, rawhide moccasins (M Hazāra)

čarḡat, headcloth (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

čarḡat, shawl (F Turkmen)

čarıq, moccasin (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi, Turkmen)

čärkäzi čuḵa, coat (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

čāroḵ, shoe (M Ṭāleš, Gāleš; M, F Kurdish, Khorasan)

čāroḵ-e ḵām, coarse shoe (M Kurdish, Khorasan)

čāroq, sandal (M Daragaz, Sabzavār)

čārqad, scarf (F Qašqāʾī, Kurdish, Khorasan)

čaršab, outer wrap (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

čāršāb. See čādəršāb

čāršo. See čādəršāb

čēkmen, mantle (M Turkmen)

čeltelīz, pleated shirt (M Torbat-e Jām, Tāybād)

čeršaw, blue checked čādor (F Sabzavār)

čeṭṭ, swaddling rope (Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

čīn, skirt gathers (F Caspian)

čırpı, mantle (F Turkmen)

čoḡa, jacket (M Kurdish, Mahābād)

čoḵ, overcoat (M Kurdish, Khorasan)

čokka, coat (M Hormozgān)

čollāba, pin (F Hormozgān)

čoqā, cloak (M Qašqāʾī)

čoqay, slipper (M Turkmen)

čoqqī, shoe (F Sabzavār)

čuḵa, coat (M, Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi; F Azeri)

čūka, waistcoat without buttons (M Kurdish)

čūḵā, cloak (M Hazāra, Daragaz)

čūmūš, shoes (M Caspian)

čūqā, čūqā-līvāsī, tunic (M, Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

čutqu, hood (F Azeri)

daraʿa, skirt (F Hormozgān)

darbalaq, drawers (F Azeri)

darpa, drawers (F Kurdish, Khorasan)

darpe, trousers (F Kurdish, Mahābād)

darpī, trousers (F Mīlān Kurdish)

dasmāl. See dastmāl

dastār, turban (M Afghanistan)

dastē kangaṛ, bracelet (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghani­stan)

dastkeš, gloves (M Caspian)

dastmāl, triangular shawl (F Kurdish, Mahābād)

dastmāl-sar, kerchief (F Kermānšāh Kurdish)

dastmāl-e sefīd, shawl (F Caspian)

depebent, cap plaque (M Turkmen)

der, coat (F Mīlān Kurdish)

der-i maḵmer, velvet coat (F Mīlān Kurdish)

derpe, trousers (F Zarzā Kurdish)

desmāl, scarf or shawl (F Mīlān Kurdish)

destār, turban (M Hazāra)

dezmāl, scarf (F Zarzā Kurdish)

dizlik, underdrawers (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

doḡa, cap plaque (M Turkmen)

dogūšī, hat (M Qašqāʾī)

dolaq, puttee (M Turkmen)

don, jacket (F Azeri; M Daragaz)

dōn, robe (M Turkmen)

dorra, turban (gypsies, Kaška-Daryā)

druzaw ḵōlay, conical straw hat (M Šīnwārī Pashtun)

ēdik, boot (M Turkmen)

eḡme, silver plaque (F Turkmen)

eḷček, sleeve pendant (F Mīlān Kurdish)

ešmäk, short fur-lined coat (F Azeri)

eyläk, waistcoat (F Mīlān Kurdish)

ezār, trousers (M, F Afghanistan; M Hazarā)

ezārband, drawstring (Afghanistan)

faqyāna, sleeve pendant (M Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

ferej, cape, mantle (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

gāleš, rubber overshoes (F Sabzavār)

gāləš, molded rubber shoes (F Caspian)

ganḍa, embroidered shirt front (M Qandahār)

gaṛa. See ganḍa

garībūn, collar (F Hormozgān)

gavan, skirt (F Hormozgān)

gavn, scarf (F Kurdish, Khorasan)

gejalik, jacket (M Kurdish, Yerevan)

gerāz, shift (F Harkī Kurdish)

gerd-e kollā, hat rim (M Hazarā)

giḍḍi, vest (M Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

gırās. See kırās

gırās-i banī, undershift (F Mīlān Kurdish)

gısa enteri, shirt (M Kurdish, Yerevan)

gīva, slipper (M Sabzavār)

gīva, gīva-malekī, sandal (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

goksu yelek, jacket (M Kurdish, Yerevan)

golābatūnī, embroidered cap (M Pashtun, Qandahār)

golvanī, kerchief (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

gönjük, fretted lozenge (F Turkmen)

gopīča, padded coat (M Uzbek, Afghanistan)

gotak, jacket (F Harkī Kurdish)

gubur čekman, jacket (M Kurdish, Yerevan)

gul, crescent-shaped ornament (F Harkī Kurdish)

güllü mäḵmär, cut velvet (Azeri)

gulow, cap (F Harkī Kurdish)

gulyaqa, collar stud (F Turkmen)

gūrāve, stockings (M Caspian)

harza, shoe (M Hormozgān)

hašt-tark, eight-gored crown of cap (M Hazarā)

haval kırās, trousers (F Mīlān Kurdish)

helake, waistcoat (F Kurdish Jewish)

hūrī, scarf (F Zarzā Kurdish)

ičmek, coat (M Turkmen)

jak. See medāḵel

jalīzqa, vest (F Sabzavār)

jāruq, mantle (F Harkī Kurdish)

jēg. See jīg

jēkaṭ, vest (M Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

jelesqa, vest (F. Kurdish, Khorasan. M Bīrjand)

jelez, waistcoat (F Caspian)

jelezqa, waistcoat (M Caspian, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

jelīqe, waistcoat (M, F Caspian)

jərqa, jacket (F Ṭāleš)

jīb, skirt (F Baluch, Persia)

jīg, embroidered bodice (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghani­stan)

jīlak, quilted robe (M, northern Afghanistan)

jizma, boot (M Kurdish, Yerevan)

jomā, shirt, dress (M, F Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

jorab, woollen sock (F Azeri, M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

jorow, stocking (M Bīrjand)

jowa, dress (F Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

jūfī, shoe (M Hormozgān)

julbār, drawers (F Turkmen)

jūma, shift, shirt (M, F Hormozgān)

jūrāb, stocking (M Caspian)

jūro, stocking (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

jüt-tuman, drawers (F Azeri)

kafalī, underskirt (F Caspian)

kāl-e šīrāzī, moccasins with knitted foot coverings (M, F Zarzā Kurdish)

ḵalā, clothing (Ṭāleš)

kalaḡay, head scarf (F Azeri)

kalāḡī, cap (F Kurdish, Kurdestan)

kalak, short cape (M Caspian)

kalawš, rubber overshoe (M northern Afghanistan)

kamar, belt (F Caspian)

kämär, belt (M, F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

kamarband, belt (M Caspian), sash (M, northern Afghanistan)

kamaṛčīn, topcoat (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh) kamardabenezār, sash (F Caspian)

kamarī, belt (M Hazarā)

kamaršāl, sash (F Caspian)

kapanak, felt cloak (M Qašqāʾī)

kapank, felt cloak (M Sabzavār)

kāpī, shoes (M, F Hazāra)

karbās, cotton cloth (northern Afghanistan, Hazāra)

ḵasaba, headdress (F Yomut Turkmen)

kašida, scarf (M, F Kurdish)

katele, clog (M Caspian)

katibi, coat (F Azeri)

kātra, dagger (M Nūrestān)

katrāk, shoe with wooden sole (M Bīrjand)

kavā, topcoat (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh), jacket (F Kurdish, Mahābād), waistcoat (M Kurdish)

kəj, silk floss (Caspian)

kəlā. See kolā

kelāw, cap (M Kurdish, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

kelū. See kelāw

kerās, shirt, dress (M, F Zarzā Kurdish, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

keynak, shirt, tunic (M, F Qašqāʾī)

kılāw, embroidered cap (F Kurdish, Mahābād)

kıḷčık. See eḷček

kırās, gırās, shirt, shift (M Kurdish; F Kurdish, Mahābād, Mīlān Kurdish)

kola, felt cap (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

kolā, hat, skullcap (M Caspian)

kolā-ḵosrowī, cylindrical hat (M Baḵtīārī)

kolā pahlevī, visored hat (M Caspian)

kolāgoš, muffler (M Caspian)

kolāh, cap (M Afghanistan, Hormozgān)

kolāqča, cap (F Qašqāʾī)

ḵōlay, cap (M Pashtun)

kolla. See kollaja

kollā, cap (M, F Hazāra)

kollaja, jacket (F Kurdish, Khorasan)

kolū. See kelāw

komoḵt, slipper (F Kurdish, Khorasan)

koptān, embroidered strip for skirt front (F Baluch, Persia)

kordīn, cape, mantle (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

korta, shirt (M Afghanistan)

körtak, gown (F Harkī Kurdish)

korvās, shirt, shift (M, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

koš, shoes (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

kot, jacket (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi; M, Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

koter, coat (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

kovā, coat (M Zarzā Kurdish)

kovnak, knee-length dress (F Daragaz)

kövüš, shoe (F Turkmen)

kowš-e sabz, green leather shoe (F Hormozgān)

köynak, shift (F Turkefied Ṭāleši)

köynäk, shirt or shift (F Azeri, M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

köynek, shirt, shift (M, F Turkmen)

kufi, cap (F Mīlān Kurdish)

kūfta, coat (M Hormozgān)

kūlaja, jacket (F Daragaz)

küläjä, coat (F Azeri)

kuldabād, shawl (F Caspian)

külla, cap (M Kurdish, Yerevan)

ḵurasan kürkü, sheepskin overcoat (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

kürdü, fur-lined waistcoat (F Azeri)

kürk, sheepskin overcoat (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

kuršaḵ, sash (M Kurdish, Yerevan)

kurtak, coat (F Kurdish Jewish)

kürte, mantle (F Turkmen)

kürte, shirt (M Turkmen)

ḵūs, gold thread (F Hormozgān)

kūsay, embroidered felt coat (M Pashtun, Paktīā)

kūt, jacket (M Caspian)

läbbädä, coat (F Azeri)

lačak, scarf (F Qašqāʾī)

lačak, hood (F Baḵtīārī, Boīr Aḥmad)

lačak, shawl (F Tajik)

lāčak. See leček

lambūta, shawl (M Bīrjand)

lang, turban (M Hormozgān)

langōtā, turban (M Afghanistan)

langūta, shawl, turban (M Torbat-e Jām, Tāybād, Hormozgān)

las, front pocket (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

lavānd, sleeve pendant (F Harkī Kurdish)

leček, scarf (F Caspian)

lelüfär, sleeve flared at elbow (F Azeri)

līfa, waistband of a skirt (F Ṭāleši)

līfand, drawstring (M Torbat-e Jām, Tāybād)

lungota, turban (M Hazāra)

mačew, coat (M Hazāra)

mahud, broadcloth (Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

maknā, scarf (F Hormozgān)

mālāa niśte, silver-studded belt (M Nūrestān)

malakī, shoe (M Hormozgān)

malekī, shoe (M Qašqāʾī)

marʾaz, cloth of goat’s hair (Kurdish Jewish)

marīdārā, colored glass beads (Qandahār)

mašī, boot (M Hazāra)

māsī, soft-soled boot (M northern Turkic, Afghani­stan)

mäst, inner shoe (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

māšta, shawl (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

māšūē, coat (M Hormozgān)

mazarī čaplay, straw sandal (Pashtun, Paktīā)

medāḵel, lace (F Kurdish, Khorasan)

memand, belt (M Hazāra)

mendīl, shawl (M Sabzavār)

meškī, kerchief (F Kurdish Kermānšāh)

meynā, veil (F Baḵtīārī, Boīr Aḥmad)

mizär, apron (F Milan Kurdish)

močpīč, cuff protector (M Bīrjand)

namad, felt (Caspian)

neẓāmī, fitted trousers (F central and southern Khorasan)

nimtänä, jacket (F Azeri)

niśte, woven belt (F Nūrestān)

nīvtana, jacket (M, F Kurdish, Khorasan)

orsī, shoes (F Bīrjand)

öwürme, linked plaques (F Turkmen)

pā-kettel. See katele

pač, turban (M Kurdish)

pādak, trousers (M, F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

paddō, front pocket (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

pāg, turban (M Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

pagṛi. See paṭkay

pakōl, cap with rolled rim (M Nūrestān)

pālīk, legging (M Daragaz)

palta, scalloped decoration for cap (M Hazāra)

pandōl. See paddo

panjak, jacket (M Kurdish, Khorasan)

pāntol, trousers (M Kurdish, Mahābād)

pāntor, trousers (M Zarzā Kurdish)

papaq, cylindrical hat (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

pāpūš, narrow trousers (M Lor)

parak. See telīza

paranjī, face veil (F Kondūz)

pāre, decorative braids (F Qasemābād)

partōg, trousers (M, F Pashtun)

pašk, shirt, dress (M, F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

pastak, long waistcoat (M Zarzā Kurdish)

patāva, puttees (M Kurdish, Khorasan)

pātave, puttees (M Caspian)

pātaw, leggings (M Nūrestān)

paṭkay, turban (M Pashtun)

patrondaš, bandolier (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

patū, mantle, shawl (M Pashtun)

pāyjāma, trousers (M Hazāra)

pāypēč, puttees (M Hazāra)

peč, turban (M Kurdish, Mahābād)

perān, (M Afghanistan, Hazāra)

perō, shirt, shift (M, F Hazāra)

peštand, sash (M, F Kurdish)

peštpand, sash (M, F Zarzā Kurdish)

petāva, puttees (M Kurdish, Khorasan)

peytava, puttees (M Sabzavār)

pirhan, tunic, shift (M, F Caspian)

pīrhan, dress (F Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

pīšānaband, kerchief (F Persian, Bukhara, Samarkand)

pišāsar, scarf (F Caspian)

pištend, sash (F Kurdish, Mahābād)

pōstīn, sheepskin coat with sleeves (M Afghanistan)

pōstīṇča, sheepskin coat without sleeves (M Afghani­stan)

pūllī, nose pins (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

pur-pur, tucks (Mīlān Kurdish)

qabā, cloak, mantle (M Baḵtīārī, Caspian, Hazāra; F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

qabā, overcoat (M Hormozgān)

qadak, trousers (F central and southern Khorasan)

qadak, cotton (Caspian)

qālāq, headband (F Qašqāʾī)

qamīṣ, shirt (M Hazāra, Hormozgān)

qāmma, dagger (M Caspian)

qarakolī, cylindrical hat of Persian lamb (M Afghani­stan)

qārma dōn, robe (M Turkmen)

qaṣabā, headdress (F Afghanistan)

qayıš, belt (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

qazzāqī, hat (M Daragaz)

qevā, topcoat (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

qırmızı dōn, robe (M Turkmen)

qol, sleeve (F, Caspian)

qors, cap (Torbat-e Jām, Tāybād)

qupba, cap finial (F Turkmen)

quršaq, waistband (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

qušaq, sash (M Turkmen)

rānk, trousers (M Kurdish, Mahābād)

rubänd, face veil (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

rūsar, ribbon (F Lāyenī Kurdish)

saat qabı, watch case (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

šäbkülah, nightcap (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

Sač monjuq, linked plaques (F Turkmen)

sačlıq. See sač monjuq

šaddā, headcloth (M Zarzā Kurdish)

sadrī, ornamented waistcoat (M Qandahār, Pashtun)

sāgī, tassel (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

šahpäsänd, silver or gold lace (Azeri)

sake, coin trimming (F Caspian)

šal, homespun woolen cloth (Azerbaijan)

šāl, homespun woolen cloth (Caspian)

šāl, cotton (Hazāra)

šāl, sash (M Caspian, Qašqāʾī, Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

šāl, rope belt (M Hormozgān)

šāl-e hazāragī, fulled woolen fabric (M Hazāra)

šāl-pešt, sash (M Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

šāl-pišt, sash (F Mīlān Kurdish)

šāl-šalvār, woolen trousers (M Caspian)

šāl-šepik, mohair suit (M Harkī Kurdish)

šalīta, skirt (F Qašqāʾī; Kurdish, Qūčān; central and southern Khorasan)

šalīta, underskirt (F Daragaz)

šalīte, dress (F Caspian)

salla, turban (M Persian, Bukhara, Samarkand)

šalla šappikta, suit (M Kurdish Jewish)

salta, jacket (M, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

šalvār, trousers, pantaloons (M Kurdish, Yerevan; Hormozgān; M, F Caspian)

šalvār jāfī, trousers (M Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

šāmī, kerchief (F Qaramānī Kurdish)

šāpo, hat (M Caspian)

šār(l), scarf (F Kurdish, Khorasan)

sarband, headcloth (F Persian, Bukhara, Samarkand)

sardabād, scarf (F Caspian)

sarēg, head scarf (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

sarrīza, cap (F Torbat-e Jām, Tāybād)

sarūk, headscarf (F Baluch, Persia)

sāroq, wrap (F northern Ṭāleš)

sarūveyn. See sarvan

sarvan, turban cloth, headband (M, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

šarwāla, trousers (F Kurdish Jewish)

šaw-kola, cap (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

šawlā, cape (M Caspian)

šawlār, trousers (M, Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

šawlār-gošād, trousers (M Baḵtīārī)

sāya, mantle (F Kurdish)

šəkā, jacket (M Ṭāleši)

šenel, cape, mantle (M Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

šev, shirt, shift (M, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

šey, tunic, shift (M, F Ṭāleši)

sīā-dīsmāl, black kerchief (F Sabzavār)

sırḡa, earring (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

šīrī, shoe thong (M Caspian)

šīša, mirror fragments (Baluch, Pakistan, Afghani­stan)

soḵlī, shoe (M Hazāra)

soḵma, waistcoat (M, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

sommaq, headdress (F Teke Turkmen)

šopūrma, ovoid lambskin hat (M Daragaz)

sorāni, sleeve pendant (M, F Kurdish)

šovāl jāfī, trousers (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

šovāl-kol, underdrawers (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

šovī, shirt, shift (M, F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

sudra, underdress (F Kurdish Jewish)

śukokuř, woolen cap with rolled rim (M Kāmvīrī, Nūrestān)

šūlā. See šawlā

tabeliḵ, central boss on cap (F Harkī Kurdish)

taḵtə, cloth strip (F Caspian)

taḵye, skullcap (F Turkmen)

tambān, trousers (M Hazāra)

tambō, trousers (M, F Hazāra)

tänbäki kisäsi, tobacco pouch (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

tanbān, trousers (M, F Afghanistan)

tanka. See toneka

tapanja qabı, pistol holster (M Šahsevān, Qaradaḡi)

tarā, turban (F Lori)

tārā, wedding veil (F Kurdish)

tarā awwal, scarf (F Lori)

tark, cap gore (M Hazāra)

tās-kelāw, cylindrical hat (F Kurdish, Mahābād)

tās-kolā, cylindrical cap (F Zarzā Kurdish)

täsäk, bonnet (F Azeri)

taʿwīḏ, amulet (Afghanistan, Baluch, Pakistan)

taʿwīz, amulet (M, F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

tawk, necklace (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

telīza, pleat (Torbat-e Jām, Tāybād)

telpek, hat (M Turkmen)

tembū, trousers (M Sabzavār)

tenečir, triangular pendant (F Turkmen)

tīlpak, tall cylindrical hat (M Turkmen, Afghanistan)

tirmä, striped woolen twill (Azeri)

tōī, embroidered strip for bodice (F Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

tombūn, trousers (M, Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

tombūn-zanūna, skirt (F Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

tonbān, trousers (M central and southern Khorasan, Qašqāʾī)

tonbān, skirt (F Qašqāʾī)

toneka, underdrawers (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

tonoka, short drawers (F Qaramānī Kurdish)

tōpī, cap (M Baluch, Pakistan, Afghanistan)

tos. See tūpī

tuman, skirt, underdrawers (F Azeri, Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi; M Šahsevān, Qaradaḡi)

tūmān, skirt (F Caspian)

tūmān qūže, waistband of a skirt (F Caspian)

tuman-köynäk, undergarment (F Azeri)

tumar, triangular plaque (F Turkmen)

tūpī, cap (F Bukharan Jewish)

tuppī, skullcap (F Tajik)

üzük, ring (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

uzun boḡaz čäkmä, boot (F Azeri)

uzun fez, tall fez (M Kurdish, Yerevan)

vācó, ankle-high moccasin (Nūrestān)

väznäli čuḵa, coat (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

viṭ, trousers (M Kāmvīrī, Nūrestān)

waskat, waistcoat (M Afghanistan, Hazāra)

yaḡlıq, headband (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi, Turkmen)

yāḡloq, headband (F Qašqāʾī)

yak-naḵī, scarf (F central and southern Khorasan)

yal, jacket (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh, Khorasan; Daragaz; Sabzavār)

yāleq, scarf (F Daragaz)

yapınja, cloak (M Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi)

yaqa-ye jūma, collar (F Hormozgān)

yašmaq, face veil (F Šahsevän, Qaradaḡi, Turkmen)

yāsmāq, face veil (F Gīlān)

yāšmāq, kerchief (F Daragaz)

yaylıḵ, shawl (F Ṭāleši)

zänjirä, silver or gold lace (Azeri)

zärḵara, gold brocade (Azeri)

zavūn, zebūn, topcoat (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

zebūn, jacket (M Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

`er-kerās, `er-korvāsī, `er-ševī, undershirt (M Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

`er-šovāl, underdrawers (F Kurdish, Kermānšāh)

, bodice (F Baluch, Persia)

zıvın, jacket (F Azeri)

zīr-šawlār, underdrawers (M, F Baḵtīārī, Lor, Boīr Aḥmad)

zol, shoe sole (M Caspian)

 

 

Figure 46. Drawing of throne bearers representing the subject nations, from a relief on the tomb of Darius the Great at Naqš-e Rostam. After Walser, foldout plate I.

Figure 47. Drawing of archer from the glazed-brick frieze, royal palace, Susa, now in the Louvre, 5th century b.c.e. After M. G. Houston, Ancient Egyptian, Mesopotamian and Persian Costume and Decoration, 2nd ed., A & C Black (Publishers) Limited, p. 164, fig. 155.

Figure 48. Drawings of fillets worn by royal guards, from reliefs on the jambs of the eastern and western doorways to the portico in the main hall, harem building, Persepolis. After A. B. Tilia, Studies and Restorations at Persepolis and Other Sites of Fārs II, pp. 64-65 figs. 11a-b.

Figure 49. Drawing of Xerxes, relief from the western jamb of the north doorway to the main hall, harem building, Persepolis. After A. B. Tilia, Studies and Restorations at Persepolis and Other Sites of Fārs II, p. 54 fig. 6.

Figure 50. Drawing of fluted hat worn by Persian guard, from a relief on the great staircase, “palace of Xerxes,” Persepolis. After M. G. Houston, Ancient Egyptian, Mesopotamian and Persian Costume and Decoration, 2nd ed., A & C Black (Publishers) Limited, p. 167 fig. 159.

 

plate l. Detail of Bactrians (?), tribute relief, Apadāna staircase facade, Persepolis. Courtesy Deutsches Archäologisches Institut, Istanbul, after Walser, pl. 65.

Figure 51. Drawing, detail of “Median” headgear with eagle device from a silver rhyton, Erebuni, ca. 500 b.c.e. Yerevan Museum. After Harper, p. 30 fig. 1a.

Figure 52. Drawing, detail of Persian wearing ordinary “tiara” from the Alexander sarcophagus, Archeological Museum, Istanbul, ca. 312 b.c.e. After Dalton, p. xxxii fig. 14.

Figure 53. Drawing, detail of Darius III from the Alexander mosaic, Museo Nazionale, Naples, 1st century b.c.e., after an original of ca. 317 b.c.e. After Dalton, p. xxxi fig. 13.

plate li. Relief of Cappadocian (?) tribute bearers from the Apadāna stairway facade, Persepolis. Photograph courtesy of Judith Lerner.

Figure 54. Reconstruction of man’s headgear from kurgan 3, Pazyryk, late 4th-early 3rd century b.c.e. After Rudenko, pl. 155B.

plate lii. Relief of Scythians wearing pointed caps, tribute frieze, Apadāna stairway facade, Persepolis. Photograph courtesy of Judith Lerner.

plate liii. Relief of “master of animals,” on the western jamb of the southern doorway, room 16, the Palace of Darius, Persepolis. Photograph courtesy of Judith Lerner.

plate liv. Front and back views of silver statuette from the “Oxus treasure,” probably 5th century b.c.e., The British Mu­seum London, no. 123901. Courtesy of the Trustees of the British Museum.

plate lv. Persian nobleman, cylinder seal of Artaxerxes (III?), The Hermitage, Leningrad. Photograph after Dandamaev, pl. XV.

plate lvi. Detail of Achaemenid courtiers, Apadāna stairway relief, Persepolis. Photograph courtesy of Judith Lerner.

plate lvii. Three views of silver figurine, courtesy of Vorderasia­tisches Museum, Staatliche Museen, Berlin, no. VA 4852.

Figure 55. Drawings, front and back, of caftan from kurgan 3, Pazyryk. After Rudenko, p. 84 fig. 30.

 

 

plate lviii. Detail of “griffin grappler,” based on the design of Achaemenid cylinder seals, from stone stele found at Kamini, Athens, late 4th century b.c.e. Formerly National Archeological Museum, Athens, now lost. Photograph after Perrot.

plate lix. Detail of Persian warrior from the Alexander sarcopha­gus, Archeological Museum, Istanbul, no. 370, ca. 312. Photograph courtesy of W. Schiele, Deutsches Archäologisches Institut, Istanbul.

plate lx. Man’s shirt from kurgan 2, Pazyryk, late 4th-early 3rd century b.c.e. Photograph after Rudenko, pl. 63.

plate lxi. Detail of Areians (or Arachosians), tribute relief, Apadāna staircase facade, Persepolis. Courtesy Deutsches Archäologisches Institut, Berlin, after Walser, pl. 50.

plate lxii. Banqueting scene engraved on ivory plaque from Demetrias, formerly National Museum, Athens, now lost. After Dentzer, p. 217 fig. 7.

plate lxiii. Banqueting scene engraved on ivory plaque from Demetrias, formerly National Museum, Athens, now lost. After Dentzer, p. 218 fig. 8.

plate lxiv. Detail of banquet scene from “Satrap sarcophagus,” Archeological Museum, Istanbul, no. 367. Photograph courtesy of W. Schiele, Deutsches Archäologisches Institut, Istanbul.

plate lxv. Scaraboid gem, blue chalcedony, Ashmolean Museum, Oxford, no. 1921.2. By courtesy of the visitors of The Ashmolean Museum.

Figure 56. Drawing, detail of royal ladies with attendants from a woven wool textile excavated in kurgan 5 at Pazyryk. After Rudenko, p. 297 fig. 139.

Figure 57. Drawing from a cylinder seal with seated lady and attendants, formerly le Clerq collection, Paris. After Dalton, p. xxiv fig. 9.

Figure 58. Drawing, detail from stone relief from Ergili in northwestern Anatolia. After M. G. Houston, Ancient Egyptian, Mesopotamian and Persian Costume and Decoration, 2nd ed., A. & C. Black (Publishers) Limited, p. 165 fig. 156.

Figure 59. Drawing, Iranian couple incised on underside of lid to cylindrical silver box, said to have been found near Erzincan in Turkey, ca. 5th century b.c.e., The British Museum. After Dalton, p. xxxviii fig. 19.

Figure 60. a. Drawing, woman’s cape or caftan from kurgan 2, Pazyryk. After Rudenko, p. 90 fig. 32. b. Drawing of sleeve from cape in a. After Rudenko, p. 91 fig. 33.

plate lxvi. Woman’s headdress with leather cutouts, from kurgan 2, Pazyryk, late 4th-early 3rd century. Photograph after Rudenko, pl. 65 C.

plate lxvii. Life-sized cast-bronze sculpture of an Arsacid nobleman, Šāmī, Ḵūzestān, now in the Iran Bastan Museum, Tehran. Photograph after Vanden Berghe, pl. 92a.

plate lxviii. Stone relief from Bard-e Nešānda, Ḵūzestān, now in the Iran Bastan Museum, Tehran. Photograph T. S. Kawami.

plate lxix. Ewer, silver with mercury gilding, Persia, 6th-7th centu­ries. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, no. 67.10, Purchase, Mr. and Mrs. C. Douglas Dillon Gift and Rogers Fund, 1967.

plate lxx. Detail of Boar Hunt relief, Ṭāq-e Bostān, 7th century. Photograph E. H. Peck.

plate lxxi. Detail of Boar Hunt relief, Ṭāq-e Bostān, 7th century. Photograph E. H. Peck.

plate lxxii. Detail, relief of the investiture of Narseh I, Naqš-e Rostam, 3rd-4th centuries. Photograph E. H. Peck.

plate lxxiii. Relief of the investiture of Ḵosrow II, Ṭāq-e Bostān, 7th century. Photograph E. H. Peck.

plate lxxiv. Relief of the investiture of Ardašīr I, Naqš-e Rajab, 3rd century. Photograph E. H. Peck.

plate lxxv. Detail, relief of Šāpūr I and his entourage, Naqš-e Rajab, 3rd century. Photograph E. H. Peck.

plate lxxvi. Relief of the investiture of Ardašīr I, Naqš-e Rostam, 3rd century. Photograph E. H. Peck.

plate lxxvii. Detail, relief of Šāpūr I and his entourage, Naqš-e Rajab, 3rd century. Photograph E. H. Peck.

plate lxxviii. Detail, relief of the triumph of Šāpūr I, Naqš-e Rostam, 3rd century. Photograph E. H. Peck.

plate lxxix. Plate, silver with mercury gilding, Persia, 5th century. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Harris Brisbane Dick Fund, no. 1970.6.

plate lxxx. Detail of the Boar Hunt relief, Ṭāq-e Bostān, 7th century. Photograph E. H. Peck.

plate lxxxi. Detail of the Boar Hunt relief, Ṭāq-e Bostān, 7th century. Photograph E. H. Peck.

Figure 61. Drawing, wool caftan from a tomb in Upper Egypt, 6th-7th century, now in the Ägyptologisches Museum, Berlin. After Tilke, pl. 4 nos. 5-7.

plate lxxxii. 1-5. Drawings after wall paintings from Panjīkant. 6. Drawing after wall painting from Afrāsīāb. 7. Drawing after wall painting from Panjīkant. 8. Drawing after wall painting from the palace at Varakhsha. 9. Drawing after ossuary from Krasnaya Rechka. 10-14. Drawings after wall paintings from Panjīkant. 15. Drawing after ossuary from Uzkishlak. 16. Reconstruction based on wall painting from Panjīkant and ossuary from Durmen-Tepe. 17-18. Drawings after wall paintings from Panjīkant. 19. Drawing after ossuary from Khirman Tepe. 20. Drawing of leather boot from the cave at Kūh-­e Sorḵ. 21. Drawing of leather shoe from Yakka-Parsan. 22-23. Drawings after wall paintings from Panjīkant.

plate lxxxiii. 24-30. Drawings after wall paintings from Panjīkant. 31. Drawing after painting from Afrāsīāb. 32. Drawing after wall painting from Panjīkant. 33. Drawing after coin of the Bukharan ruler Mawak (MR’Y mw’k). 34. Drawing after coin of Chirdmish (cr’myš MR’Y), ruler of Ustrushana. 35. Drawing after wall painting from Panjīkant. 36. Drawing after stucco relief from the palace at Varakhsha. 37. Drawing after wall painting from Panjīkant. 38. Drawing of hairnet excavated at the castle on Mount Mug. 39. Drawing after wall painting from the palace at Panjīkant.

plate lxxxiv. Clothing of the Scythian and related Iranian tribes on the Pontic steppes and in the Caucasus. 1. 4th century b.c.e., Scythians. 2. 3rd-1st centuries b.c.e., Sarmatians. 3. 1st-2nd centuries c.e., Alans-“Scythians.” 4. 2nd-4th centuries, Alans-“Massagetes.”

Figure 62. Diagram showing cut of “sīmorḡ caftan” from a tomb at Moshchevaya Balka, 8th-9th centuries. After Jeroussalimskaja, pl. XIII fig. 17.

plate lxxxv. “The standing caliph,” stucco relief from the entrance porch to the audience hall at Ḵerbat al-Mafjar, ca. 105-25/724-43. Photograph after Ettinghausen, 1972, pl. XXII fig. 75.

plate lxxxvi. “Hunter” from a polychrome fresco excavated at the palace of Jawsaq al-Ḵāqānī, Samarra, 218-27/833-42. Photograph after Herzfeld, 1927, pl. LXIX.

Figure 63. Drawing of a rider from a wall painting found in the palace of Sabzpūšān, Nīšāpūr, 3rd-4th/9th-10th centuries. After Wilkinson, 1986, p. 207 fig. 240.

plate lxxxvii. Buff-ware bowl from Nīšāpūr, 3rd-4th/9th-10th centu­ries, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, no. 38.40.290. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Rogers Fund, 1938.

plate lxxxviii. Illustration of the constellation Cepheus from Ṣūfī’s Ketāb ṣowar al-kawākeb al-ṯābeta, dated 400/1009. Courtesy of the Bodleian Library, Oxford, Ms. Marsh 144, p. 161.

plate lxxxix. Female dancers on a fragment from a polychrome fresco excavated at the palace of Jawsaq al-Ḵāqānī, Samarra, 218-27/833-42. Photograph after Herzfeld, 1927, pl. 11.

plate xc. Polychrome-painted stucco relief of a Turkish official, early 7th/13th century. Photograph courtesy of The Detroit Institute of Arts, no. 25.64, City of Detroit purchase.

plate xci. Illustration of the constellation Auriga from a manuscript of Ṣūfī’s Ketāb ṣowar al-kawākeb al-ṯābeta, dated 647/1249-­50, in the Topkapı Sarayı, Istanbul, Aya Sofya 259. After Wellesz, pl. 19 fig. 48.

plate xcii. “Varqa and Golšāh in school,” from a manuscript of ʿAyyūqī’s Varqa wa Golšāh, early 7th/13th century, Topkapı Sarayı, Istanbul, Hazine 841. Photograph after İpşiroğlu, fig. 13.

plate xciii. “The surprise attack,” from a manuscript of ʿAyyūqī’s Varqa wa Golšāh, early 7th/13th century, Topkapı Sarayı, Istanbul, Hazine 841, fol. 41. After İpşiroğlu, fig. 17.

plate xciv. Bowl with polychrome underglaze decoration, Persia, 7th/13th century. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, no. 57.61.16, Henry G. Leberthon Collection, gift of Mr. and Mrs. A. Wallace Chauncey.

plate xcv. “Shah Zav, son of Ṭahmāsb, enthroned,” from the “Demotte” Šāh-nāma, ca. 730-40/1330-40, opaque watercolor, ink, and gold on paper, 15 13/16 x 11 7/16 inches (40.2 x 29.0 cm). Courtesy of the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C., s1986.0107.

plate xcvi. Right half of a double-page composition, Hazine 2153, fol. 148v, Tabrīz, ca. 700/1300, Topkapı Sarayı, Istanbul.

plate xcvii. Portrait of Solṭān-Ḥosayn Mīrzā, ink and gold on paper, Herat (?), ca. 900/1500. Courtesy of the Arthur M. Sackler Museum, Harvard University, Cambridge, Massachusetts, no. 1958.59, gift of John Goelet.

plate xcviii. “Homāy and Homāyūn in a garden,” detached leaf from a manuscript of Rašīd-al-Dīn’s Jāmeʿ al-tawārīḵ, no. 57.51.20, colors and gilt on paper. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Cora Timken Burnett Collection of Persian Miniatures and Other Persian Art Objects, no. 57.51.20, bequest of Cora Timken Burnett, 1956.

plate xcix. “Nighttime in a palace,” attributed to Mīr Sayyed ʿAlī, from a manuscript of Ḵamsa by Neẓāmī made for Shah Ṭahmāsb, 946-50/1539-43, opaque watercolor on paper, 28.3 x 20 cm. Courtesy of the Arthur M. Sackler Museum, Harvard University, Cambridge, Massachusetts, no. 1958.76. Gift of John Goelet, formerly collection of Louis J. Cartier.

plate c. Detail, Moḥammad Haravī, portrait of a prince wearing a mantle of gold brocade, Qazvīn, mid-16th century, colors and gold on paper, 19.5 x 10.5 cm. Courtesy of the Freer Gallery of Art, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C., no. 37.8.

plate ci. Mīr Sayyed ʿAlī, “Nomadic encampment,” from a manuscript of Ḵamsa by Neẓāmī made for Shah Ṭahmāsb, 946-50/1539-­43, opaque watercolor on paper, 27.8 x 19.3 cm. Courtesy of the Arthur M. Sackler Museum, Harvard University, Cambridge, Massachusetts, no. 1958.75. Gift of John Goelet, formerly collection of Louis J. Cartier.

plate cii. “Seated princess,” attributed to Mīrzā Sayyed ʿAlī, ca. 947/1540, opaque watercolor on paper, 24.5 x 17 cm. Cour­tesy of the Arthur M. Sackler Museum, Harvard Univer­sity, Cambridge, Massachusetts, no. 1958.60. Gift of John Goelet, formerly collection of Louis J. Cartier.

plate ciii. Coat, velvet on gold-brocade ground, Persia, ca. 1730. Photograph courtesy of the Royal Armoury Museum, Stockholm, no. 3414.

plate civ. Silk-brocade qabā, Persia, 17th century. By courtesy of the Board of Trustees of the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, no. 280-1906.

plate cv. Reżā ʿAbbāsī, “Bird and scene of lovers with an attendant,” 1629-35, colors and gold on paper, 34.5 x 22.2 cm. The Seattle Art Museum, Seattle, Wash., no. 50.111, Gift of Mrs. Donald E. Frederick. Photograph Paul Macapia.

plate cvi. Persian clothing of the 17th century. After Chardin, pl. 22.

plate cvii. Sleeveless silk-brocade coat, Persia, 17th-18th century. Museum für Islamische Kunst, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin—Preussischer Kulturbesitz, no. I.8/69.

plate cviii. Embroidered silk jacket, Persia, 17th-18th century. By courtesy of the Board of Trustees of the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, no. 1935-1886.

plate cix. Persian women’s clothing of the 17th century. After Chardin, pl. 23.

plate cx. Woman’s silk-brocade buskin, Persia, 17th-18th century. By courtesy of the Board of Trustees of the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, no. 962-1889.

plate cxi. Moʿīn Moṣawwer, “Young man in European clothing,” 17th century, watercolors and gold on paper, 20.5 x 10 cm, Dauphin collection. Photograph after Treasures, p. 120 no. 90.

plate cxii. Moʿīn Moṣawwer, “Young woman in European-style dress,” watercolors and gold on paper, 20.5 x 10 cm, Dauphin collection. Photograph after Treasures, p. 121 no. 91.

plate cxiii. Man wearing kolāh-e nāderī, mid-18th century, water­colors on paper, 26 x 12.5 cm. Musée d’Art et d’Histoire, Geneva, no. 1971-107/106. Photograph Y. Sisa.

plate cxiv. Portrait of a Zand prince, 1208/1794, oil on canvas, 142 x 68 cm, Negārestān Museum, Tehran, no. 75.1.1. Pho­tograph after Falk, pl. 1.

plate cxv. “Lady with a parrot and a rabbit,” oil on canvas, Zand period, Tehran. Photograph after Falk, p. 29 pl. 10.

plate cxvi. Mihr ʿAlī, portrait of Fatḥ-ʿAlī Shah in court costume, 1228/1813, oil on canvas, 246 x 125 cm. Negārestān Museum, Tehran, no. 75.1.15. Photograph after Falk, pl. 15.

plate cxvii. Man’s knitted silk stocking (one of a pair) with in­scription, Persia, 19th century. The Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn, New York, no. 34.1030b.

plate cxviii. Girl dancing with castanets, ca. 1840, oil on canvas, 127 x 79 cm. Negārestān Museum, Tehran, no. 75.1.45. Photograph after Falk, pl. 45.

plate cxix. “Women in the andarūn,” illustrated folio from a manuscript of One Thousand and One Nights, 1861-63, Golestān Library, Tehran, no. 2240.

plate cxx. Woman’s jacket, compound silk with cotton lining, Per­sia, mid-19thcentury. The Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn, New York, no. 18.11.

plate cxxi. Necklace, gold with pearls and stones, Persia, mid-19th century. Negārestān Museum, Tehran, no. 75.4.1.

plate cxxii. Dress ornaments, gold and pearls, Persia, 19th century, Persian royal crown jewels, Tehran. Photograph after Meen and Tushingham, p. 70.

plate cxxiii. Photograph of Nāṣer-al-Dīn Shah. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Gift of Charles Wilkinson, 1977, no. 1977.683, fol. 40 pl. 22.

plate cxxiii. Aigrette and ornamental belt, enameled gold and stones on silk backing, Persia, late 19th century. Waiters Art Gallery, Baltimore, nos. 57.882-84.

plate cxxv. Esmāʿīl Jalāyer, “Women around a samovar,” late 19th century, oil on canvas. By courtesy of the Board of Trustees of the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, no. P. 56-1941.

 

plate cxxvi. Man wearing kolāh-e pahlavī, ca. 1930. Photograph courtesy of Haideh Sahim.

plate cxxvii. Women wearing čādors in Tehran during Revolution of 1358 Š./1979. After Yād-nāma-ye awwalīn sālgard-e enqelāb-e eslāmī-e Īrān 22 Bahman 1358, Washington, D.C., 1980. Detail of photograph by J. Rostami.

plate cxxviii. Men of the Tara Ḵēl tribe of eastern Pashtun. Photograph courtesy of Josephine Powell.

plate cxxix. Scene at the market of Āq Koprūk, near Mazār-e Šarīf in western Afghanistan. Photograph courtesy of Josephine Powell.

plate cxxx. Wife of village headman, central Afghanistan, south of Taywāra in Gōr province. Photograph courtesy of Josephine Powell.

plate cxxxi. Nomad woman of the Tara Ḵēl tribe of eastern Pashtun. Photograph courtesy of Josephine Powell.

plate cxxxii. “A Hazaureh,” early 19th century. After Elphinstone, pl. XII, facing p. 483.

Figure 64. Hazāra woman of Šahrestān in rare old dress, July 1954. The sleeves and the headdress are traditional. Drawing by Haideh Sahim, after Ferdinand, p. 27 fig. 10.

plate cxxxiii. Assemblage of garments as worn by older women in Ḵojand. Photograph courtesy of G. Maĭtdinova.

plate cxxxiv. Assemblage of garments as worn by young women in Kolāb. Photograph courtesy of G. Maĭtdinova.

plate cxxxv. Assemblage of young men’s garments as worn in Ḵojand. Photograph courtesy of G. Maĭtdinova.

plate cxxxvi. Assemblage of garments as worn by Tajik men in the Pamirs. Photograph courtesy of G. Maĭtdinova.

plate cxxxvii. Kurdish dress from Mahābād, showing the wrapping of the dasmāl; the model is standing on a fluffy rug. Pho­tograph S. Mohseni.

plate cxxxviii. Kurdish dress from Mahābād, with sorānis tied behind the neck and on the head a tās-kelāw wrapped in a dasmāl. Photograph S. Mohseni.

plate cxxxix. Kurdish dress and vest from Sanandaj. Photograph cour­tesy of S. Esmāʿīlzāda.

plate cxl. Kurdish man’s suit with kavā, showing one sorāni loose and one wrapped in the normal fashion. Photograph S. Mohseni.

plate cxli. Kurdish man’s suit with čūka and peštand. Photograph S. Mohseni.

plate cxlii. Kurdish children’s dress from Mahābād. Photograph S. Mohseni.

Figure 65. Traditional female dress of Jews in Iraqi Kurdistan. Drawing by Gayle Weiss.

Figure 66. Traditional male dress of Jews in Iraqi Kurdistan. Drawing by Gayle Weiss.

plate cxliii. Traditional Baluch embroidered dress. Photograph I. A. Firouz.

plate cxliv. Detail, Baluch embroidered bodice. Photograph I. A. Firouz.

plate cxlv. Traditional Baluch men’s costume. Watercolor by Loubof Kasminsky.

plate cxlvi. Traditional Baluch women’s embroidered costume. Watercolor by Loubof Kasminsky.

plate cxlvii. a. Initial sīahkār stitches on the back of the material. b. Finished embroidery in the design known as panja palang (leopard’s paw). Photographs by M. Jahānbānī.

Figure 67. Present-day Baluch clothing, Quetta, northern Baluchistan, Pakistan. Drawing P. Hunte.

Figure 68. Patterns embroidered in cotton thread on Baluch women’s dresses. a. Hapt-rang, blue, pink, green, yellow, red, black, and white with šīša work, part of a frame design on turquoise silk, Quetta, northern Baluchistan, Pakistan. b. Kōṭrō, blue, green, red, purple, white, and black on dark-green cotton, Mastung, northern Baluchistan, Pakistan. c. Mīṛčūk, black on pink and white printed rayon, Sibi, central Baluchistan, Pakistan. d. Ḵām-kār/zūrattō, with kōṭrō edging, part of a frame design in blue, pink, green, yellow, red, black, and white on beige rayon, Quetta. e. Marri-Bugti pattern, part of a frame design in blue, green, orange, and purple on white cotton, eastern Baluchistan, Pakistan. f. Madadḵān, yellow, red, green, purple, orange, black, and white and šīša work on red silk, southwestern Afghanistan. Drawings P. Hunte.

Figure 69. Kurdish men’s costume, Qūčān, northern Khorasan. Drawing by Haideh Sahim, after Żīāʾpūr, fig. 87.

Figure 70. Kurdish women’s dress, Qūčān, northern Khorasan. Drawing by Haideh Sahim, after Żīāʾpūr, fig. 53.

plate cxlviii. Two women of the Geyiklü tribe, Mūḡān, in Šahsevän costume. Photograph P. Andrews, 1970.

plate cxlix. Kurdish women and girls at a wedding, Mīlān, Mākū region. Photograph P. Andrews, 1974.

plate cl. Two women in Kurdish costume of Mahābād. Photo­graph P. Andrews, 1970

plate cli. Two men and a woman in Harkī Kurdish costume, near the borders of Persia, Iraq, and Turkey. The man on the left wears the pešmerga type of costume, the other the šāl šepik type. The woman wears the unusual high headdress. Photograph P. Andrews, 1974.

Figure 71. Drawing of čūmūš with thongs wrapped around the leg.

plate clii. Women of the Gīlān mountains, wearing black scarves (leček) and white shawls (dastmāl-e sefīd, kuldabād), long tunics (pirhan), and gathered skirts (tūmān); the older woman wears a jacket, the younger ones waistcoats (jelez). Photograph C. Bromberger.

plate cliii. Woman of the central Gīlān plain, wearing a čādəršāb over tunic (pirhan), waistcoat (jelez), underskirt (kafalī), and pantaloons (šalvār). Photograph C. Bromberger.

plate cliv. Woman of the Turkefied northern Ṭāleš, near Haštpar, wearing a long tunic (köynak), a piece of cloth (sāroq, a kind of short čādəršāb) around the waist over a gathered skirt (tūmān), and a white shawl (yaylıḵ) hiding the lower part of the face. Photograph C. Bromberger.

plate clv. Marriage ceremony in the Deylamān area, with dancing women wearing tunics (pirhan) in plain bright colors over floral­-patterned skirts (tūmān), embroidered shawls (dastmāl-e sefīd, kuldabād), and waistcoats (jelez) edged with coins. Photograph C. Bromberger.

plate clvi. Ṭāleš shepherd wrapped in a cape (bašlāḵ) made of šāl and wearing molded rubber shoes (gāləš). Photograph C. Bromberger.

plate clvii. Mountain shepherds near Rūdbār, the one on the left wearing the felt cape (šawlā). Photograph C. Bromberger.

plate clviii. Men of Ṭāleš, the one on the left in “European” dress, the one on the right in traditional trousers, jacket, and skullcap made of šāl. Photograph A. Karimi.

plate clix. Typical woman’s dress of Hormozgān, 1992. Photograph R. Sh. Nadjmabadi.

plate clx. Women’s šalvār with embroidered cuffs, Hormozgān, 1992. Photograph R. Sh. Nadjmabadi.

plate clxi. Woman wearing baṭṭūla qaṭarī and čādor, Hormozgān, 1992. Photograph R. Sh. Nadjmabadi.

Figure 72. Women’s šalvār. Drawing by Haideh Sahim.

Figure 73. Baṭṭūla. Drawing by Haideh Sahim.

plate clxii. Ḥosayn-ʿAlī Qermezī, a young Qašqāʾī. Photograph by L. Beck.

plate clxiii. Qašqāʾī women. Photograph by L. Beck.

Figure 74. Front and back views of striped woolen čuqā, worn by Lori-speaking men over a Western jacket.

Figure 75. Headdress worn by Lori women.

Figure 76. Headdress worn by women of the Baḵtīārī and Boīr Aḥmad tribes.

plate clxiv. Married Yomut woman wearing köynek, balaq, čabıt, with bürenğek over the ḵasaba, ca. 1900. After Tol­stov et al., II, plate facing p. 88.

plate clxv. Married Otamıš Teke woman wearing köynek, balaq, čabıt with facings and čaŋŋa at the bottom, and yašmaq. The čırpı is draped over the sommaq. Gonbad-­e Qābūs, 1970. Photograph P. Andrews.

plate clxvi. Engraving of married Yomut woman wearing ḵasaba, buqaw, and adamlıq, 19th century. After Rostkowski, in Rudolph, p. 56.

(EIr)

Originally Published: December 15, 1992

Last Updated: October 25, 2011

This article is available in print.
Vol. V, Fasc. 8, pp. 865-870